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Dabiz Muñoz's liquid magic seduces once again at Madrid Fusión

Miguel Lorenci

 

Alcohol-free and sugar-free, he will incorporate a radical liquid menu of ‘chewable drinks’ into Diverxo, which will run ‘parallel’ to the solid menu. The chef marks another milestone with ‘wild and subtle’ concoctions in the form of consommés, soups and soft drinks of a subtle and unknown sophistication

Dabiz Muñoz surprised and delighted once again at Madrid Fusión, this time with his sophisticated liquid magic. The star chef, the only one with three Michelin stars in Madrid, has gone from being the “enfant terrible” of Spanish gastronomy to the great helmsman who sets the course for global cuisine. And this time he proved it by surprising everyone with a liquid menu, ‘chewable drinks’, alcohol-free and sugar-free, which will be the new flagship of Diverxo, the flagship restaurant of this chef who has transformed his career. It will cost €450, like the solid menu, and can be consumed alongside the first.

‘They will blow your mind’, promises Muñoz, who will offer ‘wild or subtle’ concoctions such as “hare wine” or “butter champagne”, with which the revolutionary chef once again captured everyone's attention on the opening day of the major gastronomic congress as the leading standard-bearer of the new cuisine.

At the helm of Diverxo, this disruptive Madrid native, born in 1980, continues to create powerful and surprising dishes and new culinary concepts, such as the ten ‘edible drinks’ in the form of consommés, soups or soft drinks of unknown sophistication that he prepared before a stunned, packed auditorium.

A rollercoaster of flavours

He presented a project that began four years ago on a trip to Croatia, where fermented drinks are very popular. ‘A liquid cuisine to which we accord the same status as solid cuisine’, he said of formulations that are ‘just as hedonistic and tasty’.

‘We make a liquid cuisine that organically combines with solid cuisine, liquids that we want to be a roller coaster, with lots of flavour, breaking all the rules of what accompanies solid cuisine and having importance in itself’, said the chef before preparing a dozen dishes. ‘It is the ultimate expression of creativity within Diverxo. And next month they will be on the restaurant's menu’, he anticipated.

He will welcome customers with bottles labelled with details of each preparation. He has created a portfolio of around thirty drinks, some such as “Chufa sake”, a nigiri-style sake that is ‘chewy, cloudy and funky’ and served with roasted caviar and wasabi.

He made “wet kombucha” with lapsang kombucha, shiitake, mulato chilli, hibiscus, Angostura bitters, distilled truffle liqueur, drops of Sardinian fregola and cinnamon powder. ‘You don't know what you're drinking, but it's extraordinary’, he promises of ‘a very aromatic drink that you chew’.

He also blends churros with Jamaican mole in a drink called “Cod Brew New Style”, “Butter champagne with spritz dressing”, a 00-preparation based on aged champagne with a bitter base made from a dozen ingredients: orange, butter, vanilla, oyster, ponzu. He tops it off with a fake oyster, made with oyster water and ponzu.

Another wild drink, called “Pago de Villaliebres”, it is wine in name only. It is a hot infusion of animal proteins, based on a consommé made from hare blood. ‘It looks like a simple glass of wine, but it's hare wine’, insists its creator.

He finished with other “wild drinks” such as a “hot Tom Yum”, made from Motril shrimp, a concoction inspired by one of the chef's favourite ingredients. He followed this with “Sower”, with almonds without almonds, with sheep's milk skin and ash from corn cob hairs. He finished with a “Char sui bao” made with fermented mizuna plum, ‘the closest thing to a super-powerful vegetable Siu bao’, he concluded to applause.

‘It was overwhelming. You achieve new, overflowing flavours with sophisticated techniques and ingredients. You have exceeded all expectations and set a milestone, as you have done so many times before’, praised Joseé Carlos Capel, creator of Madrid Fusión.

‘He is exuberant, provocative, generous, disruptive... A whirlwind that breaks all the moulds with twenty ingredients in a single dish where harmony seems impossible, but which works’, said Capel when introducing this genius of the kitchen who was the Revelation Chef at Madrid Fusión 2008, and is now the “boss”.

Muñoz has climbed to the top from the Viridiana kitchens, as a protégé of Abraham García, his culinary “father”, at Chantarella, also in Madrid, and at the Michelin-starred London restaurants Orrery, Hakassan, Nobu, and Nahm.

National Gastronomy Award for Best Chef 2009, Best European Chef 2014, and “Prix du Chef de l'Avenir” Award 2014.

After years of hovering around the top spot, in 2021 he was named number one on “The Best Chef Awards” list. That same year, the prestigious French guide “La Liste” awarded him the Innovation Prize. Today he ranks 20th in The World's 50 Best Restaurants.

In recent years, Goxo Barcelona and a delivery service –Goxo–, which also diversifies through a food truck, have been added to the current StreetXo Madrid and the now defunct Streetxo London.

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