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Riccardo Canella's vital discovery
The Italian chef, who spent seven years at Noma, is preparing a new restaurant in his native Venice
After travelling the world and working at Noma*** for seven years, Riccardo Canella felt the need to change his life. That change was to return to Venice, one of the most beautiful cities in the world. "I wanted to be myself", confesses the Paduan chef at Madrid Fusión Alimentos de España, mixing his mother tongue with Spanish.
On his return to the city of the canals, he took the helm of the Oro* restaurant, but left to search for himself. A process of discovery that is now coming to an end. "Now, I'm going to create my own restaurant. I've been working for others for a long time, and now I want to do it for myself", he says. "I have discovered myself", Canella explained in a speech that was a mixture of reflection and a tasting of two dishes.
"After so many years at Noma, I wanted to know who I was", the Italian chef reflected, while an assistant prepared a risotto. The trip ended in Venice, where he began to think about his new adventure, which will come to fruition in a few months' time. He has already contacted local artisans to come up with new dishes and other ideas for his new home. Meanwhile, the risotto, made with a roasted and fermented vegetable broth, was being prepared. Saffron, "brought to Venice by the Spaniards", was added and then buttered with sea urchin and plenty of Parmesan cheese. On the plate, it is crowned with a small sample of seaweed sauce. The second course is a dessert to die for. In a scallop shell, Canella places an ice cream of asperula (an aromatic plant), an oyster sorbet in the middle, and a cream of goat's cheese with plankton and tarragon oil on top. These are just two examples of what Canella has in mind for his restaurant, which he is still working on.
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