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Colombia's pantry is born in the marshlands

Carla Vidal

 

Colombia has 50% of the world's peat bogs, so it is not surprising that the country's larder is closely linked to these natural spaces. The peculiarity of this ecosystem attracted the attention of chef Jeferson García, whose Afluente project aims to make the páramo visible and accessible

For three years, Jeferson and his team have been researching the páramos, and "I realised that they are everything in Colombia". The páramos make up only "3% of Colombia's territory, but they produce between 70 and 80% of the country's water", the chef explained to the audience. A wealth of which the indigenous people were already aware, "for whom water was a goddess to be respected". A respect for the environment that the farmers have continued to maintain, and whose fruits Jeferson García is keen to highlight.

"The marshes are made up of moors, submoors and supermoors. The latter are those at the highest altitudes, around 4,000 metres, where the most specific ingredients are found, such as the camarona grape, bananillo, or romerito de páramo. The higher the altitude, the greater the concentration of flavours," explains the chef. And it is these ingredients that stand out in his cuisine, but not just the ingredients themselves, but also the people who grow and produce them. "Our aim is to highlight the value of the ingredient and the producer. We want to help them sell their products, because many of them don't even reach the markets", says García, as he prepares various dishes with arepas, wild duck or papayuelas.

Mountain berries, ibias, cubios, and medicinal herbs were added to the list of products that Jeferson distributed on stage. All of them "products linked to a unique ecosystem, that of the páramos, which we must preserve because if the water in Colombia runs out, 70% of its food supply will disappear", warned the chef.

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